Cycling: Loire Atlantique

Day 6: Sunday 10th May
La Baule - Le Migron 60km

After riding past Flinstones style architecture and along the promenade of La Baule (think Brighton) it was time to undertake the first big challange of the trip - the enormous bridge at St Nazaire. A hair raising experience with all traffic (inc ourselves) merging into one lane at the peak and bridge joints big enough to grab a bike tyre. Fortunatly all went well.

The view back past the bridge to the north bank of the river revealed the industrial heart of St Nazaire with cruise liners being welded together at the wharves.

The mouth of the Loire marked the start of Eurovelo 6 and our jouney eastwards. There was no signage to greet us so after a brief stop we turned our back on the Atlantic and headed inland.

A massive lightening storm forced us off the road mid-afternoon. Kept company by the industrial skyline we pushed east until cold overtook us and we sought the refuge of a closed municipal campsite for a hot soup (go the cooker!) and a nights rest.

Day 7: Monday 11th May
Le Migron - Ancenis 84km

An early start in light rain became a bit of a marathon before we found the first open shop for breakfast at midday. Plenty of pubs open with locals enjoying a pint at 9am but no food! The route itself along the canal was nice. The first ferry across the river was closed (without signage) due to a light breeze (French unions?) so some detouring was required to find the second ferry to Nante. Nante itself was uninspiring being an old port city.

After passing several closed campsites we talked to a local who confirmed our fears - most municipal campgrounds (the campgrounds marked on our map) only open 1 June (for reference municipal sites are run by local government and are typically very basic). The continued presence of the Gendamarie put paid to any thought of sneaking into a closed site. Eventually we made it to a nice campsite in Ancenis where we gorged ourselves on carbohydrates and limped off to bed.


















Day 8: Tuesday 12th May
Ancenis

No biking today! Instead it was time to learn to walk again.

The campsite washer/dryer got our gear back to square one. In Brittany we had been washing clothes each morning and drying them on the back of the bikes but a couple of days rain had run through our reserves.


Day 9: Wednesday 13th May
Ancenis - Angers 45km

Long straight farm roads lead for easy riding. At lunch-time Mark had the first puncture of the trip. We discovered the rear wheel was not a quick-release type but managed an easy repair without removing wheel. Real effort geting back up to 58psi using mini-pump but worth the trouble for fast rolling. Spanner next on the shopping list.

During the afternoon we travelled along a 10km island in the Loire. Later on towards Angers we were hit by the biggest storm yet - marble sized hail stones, public drains becoming gysers, and a sound and light display to put Pink Floyd to shame.

After setting up camp we rode the unloaded bikes to the shops. The bikes go like rockets without the luggage and we finally made use of the 3rd gear set. We visited yet another Instersport to fix Susans pannier rack but no luck - this one didn't even sell bikes. Half a cooked chicken and a good bottle of Brittany cider put us in better spirits back at camp.

Angers marked the end of this chapter of the trip and the beginning of the middle Loire with it's many chateau.